Irkutsk
Monday 7 August
Located 70Km from Lake Baikal; Irkutsk is the capital of
Eastern Siberia. It was the administration center of Siberia (and Alaska when
it was part of Russia).
Situated on the Angara River, the only river that flows from
Lake Baikal to the Arctic, the city was founded in 1661 as a Cossack Garrison
to extract fur tax from the indigenous Buryats.
| Statue of Alexander III, Monument was removed by communists but subsequently replaced in the late 1990s |
In the late 18th century, Alexander III, father
of the last Tsar, proclaimed that the railway be built across Siberia to make
Siberia accessible. We visited his monument located in a park that spreads
along the bank of river near the town center.
Siberia was a place of banishment of the Decembrists who
attempted a coup against the Tsar in St Petersburg in 1825. Many arrived in
Irkutsk in 1826. They were highly
educated men and women who bought with them their knowledge of mathematics, natural
sciences, French and music; having a profound influence on the development of
local society and benefiting it in other ways, starting a school for children,
teaching peasants to read and practising medicine.
Volkonsky House -
Museum.
We visited this large attractive house of this famous
Decembrist, Victor Volkonsky, whose wife Maria followed him into Siberian
exile.
In the 1840’s and first half of the 1850’s, the mansion
threw musical recitals and dinner parties for the likes of the Governor of
Siberia and other Decembrists, thus giving Irkutsk their ‘window to Europe’.
Displays include Maria’s clothes, letters, family portraits, furniture, beadwork and a very unique
pyramid-like piano.
Local artists with much pomp and ceremony treated us to a candlelight
music recital, followed by a champagne toast to the household.
The grounds surrounding the house had stables and well
tendered gardens.
In the afternoon we went to a large shopping complex with
modern shops and global branded outlets. Nice restaurants and cafes surrounded
the mall, mostly built with a wooden façade frontage typical of 17-18th century
buildings.
That night we went to a country-side home of local family (called a Dacha). Originally given to people in the party who had given 'good service or special favours, since the collapse of the Soviet Union - now people can buy them.
We were treated to a typical Siberian meal (yes, they had 21 for dinner), then we walked around their immaculately tendered vegetable garden.
We stayed in the Courtyard Marriott in Irkutsk, enjoying creature comforts of wide plush beds, large well-appointed bathrooms with quality showers, and WiFi allowing communication back home.
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